Travel Memories

Bridalveil Falls

2006-04-12T08:22:00.000-07:00

First stop of the trip was Bridalveil Falls. The parking lot is a short drive from the park entrance, and the vista point just is a short walk from the parking lot. It is the perfect spot for those who want to get their feet wet for Yosemite valley.

It was relatively late in the year, and the water was not at its fullest. We decided not to climb up onto the rocks to get to the pool at the base of the falls. They say if you can stare into the mist for more than a minute, you will get married within a year. There wasn't any mist where we were standing, so did not have a chance to test that.

Yosemite Autumn

2006-04-11T08:17:00.000-07:00

I always wanted to see autumn colors. One of the trips on my short list is to do New England in the fall. It's still on my short list, and I can never seem to find the right time to do it.

As a backup plan, I decided to do Yosemite in the fall. The logic was simple. It snows in Yosemite in the winter. There are trees there. Therefore, I should be able to see the leaves on those trees turn red and gold and orange before the snow starts falling.

So, one weekend two years ago, Doreen and I hopped into the car, and started driving east, towards the Sierras.

Sand Dunes

2006-01-29T11:07:00.000-08:00

Our final stop in the Valley was the sand dunes close to Stovepipe Wells. These sand dunes take up only a very small portion of the entire valley, and I found myself wondering how all this sand converged to this spot instead of being scattered to the four corners of the park. From certain angles, the dunes frame the desert in its most stereotypical pose – miles of pure golden sand. Walking across the dunes took a little getting used to. I expected it to be like a stroll on the beach, but the sand here was less packed and much more likely to give way under your feet. It was more like walking in snow. I felt that every footstep I made on the dunes was a blemish to this picture perfect scene, and I found comfort only in the thought that they will be gone and forgotten with the next gale.

The sun was just about starting to set as we approached the dunes, bathing the sands in just the right hue. I exclaimed in wonder, and snapped away delightedly with my camera. From the top of our dune, we also saw a few other people, each on the top of their respective dunes, trying to capture the moment.

“This makes it all worth it”, Paul said simply.

I nodded, and we left the Valley with its pristine dunes and its rugged mountains, its untamed winds and its salt covered terrain, its awe-inspiring panoramas and last but not least, its proud magnificent desolation.

Ubehebe Crater

2006-01-23T22:03:00.000-08:00

Aside from the castle, the other major sight in that region was the Ubehebe Crater. This was one gigantic hole in the ground, and reminds me a lot of the Sarlacc Pit in Return of the Jedi. At first, I imagined this was caused by some ancient meteor bouncing off the Earth like a huge space-faring billiard ball. The information board at the site tells us otherwise, though. This in fact is what you get when you add magma to an underground lake. The immediate region all around the crater was covered with black ash and sand, very much like what you see on the beaches of Santorini, another volcanically active spot.

One place in the Valley that I really would have liked to visit was the Racetrack. This was accessible by a gravel road branching off from the paved one to the Ubehebe Crater. Since we didn’t want to subject Paul’s poor car to God knows how many miles of bumping around, we had to leave this out of our itinerary. Why am I so interested in this Racetrack place then? Because rocks move here, and nobody knows why. That’s right. They move, in strange unpredictable paths, leaving trails in the dried mud. Sometimes a few will move together, and sometimes one decides to simply take off on its own. And the mysterious thing is, no one has ever seen them move! How friggin’ cool is that? Next time I come, I’m renting a four wheel drive.

Scotty's castle

2006-01-23T21:59:00.000-08:00

Our first stop on Sunday was Scotty’s castle. Built by insurance magnate Albert Johnson, the castle bears the name of his caretaker, Walter Scott. When the castle was built, Scott bragged to reporters that he was the once who actually built the castle, financing it with his private gold mine. Albert Johnson played along with the charade, and it eventually became known as Scotty’s Castle. I supposed Albert must really be a nice guy to allow his castle to be named after his caretaker.

We chose not to join the tour into the castle, and spent our time walking up a small uprising to where Death Valley Scotty was buried. From the top, the view was quite pleasant, and there was a plaque with a quote by Scotty, “I got four things to live by: Don’t say nothing that will hurt anybody. Don’t give advice, nobody will take it anyway. Don’t complain. Don’t explain.”

To give an idea of how large Death Valley is, Scotty’s Castle is 53 miles from the Furnace Creek Visitor Center. That is roughly the distance between San Jose and San Francisco. It didn’t seem that far when we were in the Valley, though. I guess the size and scope of the entire region really do affect your perceptions.

No rooms available

2006-01-22T23:15:00.000-08:00

When we arrived at the tiny town of Beatty, it was immediately obvious that this place existed mostly to serve the traffic coming in and out of Death Valley. There were a few cheap looking motels, the obligatory restaurants and gas stations, even a ritzy casino. We were just looking forward to a comfortable night’s rest when we were told by a receptionist that “every room from here till the California border has been booked for the long weekend.” I was momentarily stunned, and instantly started to chide myself for not making reservations. The horde has arrived, and we were in the midst of it. We ignored the omens, disregarded the signals, and grossly underestimated the number of people traveling on this day. As a result, we found ourselves in the middle of nowhere with no available hotel room within a hundred mile radius.

“Let’s drive to Las Vegas”, said Paul.

“You gotta be kidding. Vegas is two hours from here”

“What other choice do we have?”

He had a point. With the zillion hotels in Vegas, there’s got to be one with an available room, right? So, we hopped back into the car, and headed south. Two hours later, we were scouring the Strip asking for a hotel room. After about 15 phone calls, I decided that it was time to grab something to eat and resign ourselves to sleeping in the car. That was definitely a novel experience for me, and I slept surprisingly well.

Until, of course, 5:30 in the morning when the security guys shone a light into the car and politely and firmly told us that we are not allowed to sleep here, chums. “Ok, sorry”, we replied, which actually translates to “You think we have any choice? Fxck you.”

So we got up and decided to see if the breakfast buffet at Bellagio was going to be open anytime soon. It didn’t start till eight, so I sat down at a blackjack table and squandered forty bucks in ten minutes before heading back to the car to catch another hour’s worth of sleep. The Bellagio parking lot was much more comfortable, and no security guys showed up this time.

We debated a little about our plans for the day over a hearty brunch. Should we make the two-and a half hour trip back to the Death Valley? Should we stick around Vegas and check things out? Should I try to win back my forty bucks? Where will we spend the night? Bakerfield, as planned? Why not in Vegas? In the end, we came to a compromise – go back to the Valley, and spend the night in Bakersfield. That would cut the return journey by half on Monday since Vegas to SF would have been a ten hour drive

Badwater Basin

2006-01-22T21:19:00.000-08:00

The next stop on our itinerary was Badwater Basin. According to legend, one of the early prospectors came across this small body of water and couldn’t get his mule to drink from it. Thus, he called this “bad water” and the name stuck. The water, it seems, is not poisonous, but simply undrinkable due to the mineral deposits.

Stark beauty aside, Badwater is pretty much a godforsaken place. In addition to that slight problem with the water, it is 280 feet below sea level, there is no vegetation whatsoever, and the temperature routinely eclipses 110 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer. Taking all that into consideration, I would have expected any sensible living thing to avoid this area at all costs. This brings me to two conclusions - 1) tourists are crazy. 2) There are crazier things than tourists, and they are called Badwater Snails. These little critters actually live in the brine of Badwater Basin. Talk about resilience, strength of character, standing up in the face of adversity, and being stuck in a really, really, really lousy situation.

Like the Devil’s Golf Course, and probably a large portion of the Valley, the floor of Badwater Basin was covered with the white stuff that we now recognized as crystallized salts. Over time, the steady stream of visitors have trudged a white-colored path heading into the basin away from the parking lot. We followed the path and wandered around. A member of the Green Tortoise tour group that was also visiting the Basin at that time suddenly pointed up to the side of the mountain and said “What’s that sign up there on the mountain?”

I looked up, even though he obviously wasn’t talking to me. The sign, about 200 feet above where I was standing, had two large words – “SEA LEVEL”. Yep. There you have it, folks.

This is the lowest spot in the entire western hemisphere. Incidentally, the highest point in the 48 contiguous states is Mt. Whitney, no more than a hundred miles away from here.

As the sun started to set, we drove out to of the park to the nearby Beatty to find a place to spend the night. Nested in its own crib of mountains, the Valley is truly isolated from the rest of civilization. Stars usually hidden by light pollution began to appear one after another, high above in the night sky. I believe it was Bessie Johnson who said, “You may have cities and electric lights, movies, dancing parties, and surging crowds; but, for a thrill, an emotion, a sense of peace, and a confidence in a God who cares, give me moonlight in the Desert.”

Devil's Golf Course

2006-01-18T22:05:00.000-08:00

A few miles down the road from Golden Canyon was the Devil’s Golf Course. To get to the vista point, we had to turn into an unpaved road which had its share of bumps and dips. Many of the roads in the Valley were unpaved, and I have yet to figure out whether this is because of the relatively small number of visitors compared to the other national parks in the region, or because of the huge size of the Valley itself.

“This is terrible! Oh! My car!” Needless to say, Paul was really feeling for his car as we vroomed onwards. “Drive slower.. please. Ouch ouch ouch ouch.” I wondered how much fun the new Honda Civic couple was having just about now. But then again, maybe they were still parked at the pump.

The Devil’s Golf Course was the remnants of an ancient lake. Believe it or not, back in the good old days thousands and thousands of years ago, this entire place was filled with water. But time passed, and even climates change. The lake dried up, leaving behind the crystallized minerals on the Valley floor as a silent memorial to the days long gone.

At the vista point, we were surrounded by miles upon miles of craggy terrain covered with white crystallized salt. The unique feature of the Devil’s Golf Course was the gnarled lumpy formations that lent an unreal, extra-terrestrial quality to the region. All you needed now was a spaceship, and buckets of goo to smear onto the lumpy formations. Wait till nightfall, and you’d be expecting to see Ripley running around spraying the badass Queen-mother Alien with napalm. We didn’t wait till nightfall, so we had to settle for trying to make out the sound of billions of salt crystals cracking in the afternoon sun.

Golden Canyon

2006-01-18T22:02:00.000-08:00

Our first stop after Furnace Creek was the Golden Canyon hiking trail. It wasn’t really on our itinerary, but we stopped to take a look to see why all the cars were parked by the road, and decided to walk off our lunch. The name Golden Canyon sounds rather inspirational too.

The afternoon sun was really starting to turn up the heat, and soon after setting off from the trailhead, I was drinking lots of water and wearing only a T-shirt. The trail was only a little over a mile long, but by the time we got there, we were doing everything we could to walk in the shade. The walls on both sides of the canyon were a lighter shade than the mountains that surround the Valley, almost golden under the sunlight.

Entering the Desert

2006-01-17T21:04:00.000-08:00

Saturday was Valentine’s Day. Somehow, driving around with another guy in the middle of the desert didn’t feel very Valentinely to me. So, we sort of forgot about the occasion. It dawned on me that a plausible explanation to why our negotiations broke down with the other potential participants of the trip was because Valentine’s Day was not the type of quality time you want to spend with two other guys, no matter what your situation was.

Coming back to driving through the desert, we did that for a few hours before we finally came to the entrance of the park. There really wasn’t anything that marked it as an entrance, just a looming mountain range, and a line on the map in my hand. We had less than half a tank of gas left, and we fretted a little about running out before the next gas station.

At first glance, the valley does not seem to be any more impressive than much of the scenery along the arduous roads that lead to it from Los Angeles, Bakersfield, or Las Vegas. The land was dry and covered with coarse pebbles. All the smaller components such as soil and dirt had been blown away by the wind due to the minimal vegetation cover. Occasionally, a drunken tumbleweed would decide to cross the road without a thought of its own safety. Every direction we look, the brown mountains were always in the background, barren and imposing. As we stopped at Stonewell Pipes to fill up on gas, we were somewhat relieved see that there were many other visitors to the park – bikers in leather, retirees in RVs, and even that one couple that decided that it would be a good idea to park their brand new Honda Civic at the gas pump.

Of course, the first stop on our itinerary was the Furnace Creek Visitor Center smack in the middle of the park. Always visit the Visitor Center in the National Parks. They give out really cool glossy high-quality maps, and the rangers, as always, were extremely helpful in telling us where to visit and how to get there.

President's Day in the Death Valley

2006-01-17T20:41:00.000-08:00

Death Valley has always struck me as a place of mystery and wonder. Designated as a National Park in 1994, this is the largest park outside of Alaska. Although it lacks the beautiful perfection of Yosemite, or the unbelievable grandeur of the Grand Canyon, there are still many secrets to be unearthed here in this isolated corner of the world.

On the President’s Day long weekend of 2004, Paul and I decided to take a road trip to check this place out. Everyone else seemed to be busy and unwilling to commit for 3 whole days, so after all negotiations broke down with the others, we decided to stake it out on our own.

From Yahoo Maps, the drive to the Valley was a little over seven hours. Since driving long distances has never been a favorite hobby of mine, I proposed that we break up the journey by spending Friday and Sunday nights in Bakersfield. Reason prevailed, and the plan was set. At sunset, we set out from the Bay Area, jauntily heading south in Paul’s ‘95 Nissan Sentra.

As we pulled into Bakersfield at around midnight, the first motel that we tried was fully booked. We thought nothing more of it, moved on to the motel next door, and even managed to bargain a $10 discount for one of the two remaining rooms. Little did we suspect that we were witnessing the ominous effects of what was to come. The next day, the first day of the long weekend, millions of Americans will get out of bed, into their SUVs, and head off towards some faraway destination. Our little incident with the rooms signaled the approach of the vanguard of this inevitable horde, like water seeping through cracks before the dyke finally gives way with a thunderous burst, and the river comes crashing down on the landscape, including the little Dutch boy with his finger stuck in the wall.

Ho'okipa Beach Overlook

2006-01-11T00:07:00.000-08:00

Even on Maui, where you get a thousand different views of the ocean, this has gotta be one of the best. The waves below us were huge and relentless. We stood there for a long time, watching surfers make their way out away from the shore to take on the next big one.

So there you go, boys and girls, my last post on Maui. It was an unforgettable trip, simply unforgettable, and we are both looking forward to going back in the near, near future.

Mama's Fish House

2006-01-09T22:13:00.000-08:00

Our flight back to the Bay Area was not until late in the evening, and we wanted to make the most of our last day here in paradise. After checking out of our hotel in Kihei, it was lunch and drinks at Mama's Fish House near Paia.

A search on Google, or simply opening up your guide book will tell you that this is an award winning restaurant with numerous accolades. The atmosphere was unbeatable - wide windows open up to the coconut palms and sandy beaches. The food was on the pricey side, and in my opinion, perhaps a little bit so. If you come during the daytime, my recommendation is not to get a couple of appetizers ( the Ahi Tuna sashimi is awesome ) and drinks, and sip and sway to the sounds of the waves lapping on the sands.

Shadows in the Sand

2006-01-07T18:52:00.000-08:00

Before we checked out, we took a walk on the beach right behind our hotel. It was a quiet morning, and there were not many people out yet. We buried our toes in the sand, and to simply enjoyed the warmth of the morning sun.

Ending the day

2006-01-07T14:04:00.000-08:00

After so many stops, we are finally turning back east towards Paia and Kahului. The sun was just about to set, and we stopped at one of the sites on the Haneo'o Road loop to simply enjoy the time passing by.

Palapala Ho'omau Congregational Church

2006-01-06T23:56:00.000-08:00

Well, Oheo Gulch was the climax of this journey, but there was still one last destination left on our agenda - to pay homage to the final resting place of Charles Lindbergh. Heading west of Oheo Gulch, we passed many a secluded home, looking for the Palapala Ho'omau Congregational Church. The church itself is hidden away in a unmarked corner of Kipahulu. We definitely would not have been able to find it without the help of our Lonely Planet guide, and even then, we had to double back a couple of times before we found the correct turn-off.

It is a quiet place for someone as famous as Lindbergh to spend the final years of his life, but it was not hard to imagine why. The churchyard in the back is an infinitely peaceful place. All you had to do was to look out at the ocean, and you will never want to leave. There are bouquets of fresh flowers left on the grave, and there is an inscription there that says "If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea…"

Oheo Gulch

2006-01-05T21:42:00.000-08:00

Some call this place the Seven Sacred Pools, though there are more than seven, and none of them are or ever have been sacred to anybody. The place is beautiful, and I highly recommend anyone taking the Road to Hana to go a little bit further and make it the Road to Oheo instead.

This is also part of the Haleakala National Park, with a couple of intriguing trails that we didn't have time to try. A good number of people were swimming in the pools, which
brought to mind the question - where do they all come from? Possibly from the neighboring towns of Hana and Kipahulu, or perhaps they also did the long, windy drive like us, all the way from Paia and beyond.

Wailua Falls

2006-01-05T21:05:00.000-08:00

There's not much in Hana. All the guide books tell you that - on this particular road, it is the journey that counts, not the destination. We stopped there for a while, drove to the waterfront, and looked towards the ocean, then we continued down the road, this time away from Hana.

The Wailua falls was the first waterfall that we came across after Hana. It was a magnificent drop, right next to the roadside. There was a lady selling handmade necklaces, and I got one for Doreen as a momento of the trip.

Wai'anapanapa State Park

2006-01-04T23:35:00.000-08:00

We almost missed the turn into Wai'anapanapa, and I am so happy that we didn't. Wai'anapanapa is more beautiful than Pua'a Ka'a by far. We saundered around, taking pictures. I liked the color scheme of the area. It was as if some creator got tired of tropical green, and in a flash of genius, decided on more contrast, mixed the surrounding vegetataion with a dash of yellow and a splash of brightness, and painted the sands jet black. A short walk from the parking lot took us down to a black sand beach where people in bathing suits played in the water.

Pua'a Ka'a State Wayside Park

2006-01-04T23:17:00.000-08:00

This State Park is a significant stop on the Road to Hana. When I say "significant", I did not mean that it in the beautiful-scenary, or culturally interesting sort of way, but more along the lines of having restrooms and picnic tables, and room to stretch your legs. Don't get me wrong though, it is a nice park, complete with a tiny little waterfall pattering its way into a quiet pool.

We had lunch here. And it turns out, that cats do too. As soon as we sat down, a wild cat stationed itself a safe distance from us, staring at our sandwiches with its adorable eyes. Like that puss in boots from Shrek, you know.

"So.... cute.....!!!" Ever the cat-lover, Doreen started feeding it bits of her sandwich. We ended up with one photo of the waterfall, and ten photos of the cat.

Waterfall at Wailua Valley State Wayside

2006-01-04T23:13:00.000-08:00

Kaenae Peninsula Lookout

2006-01-04T23:05:00.000-08:00

Before we continued on our way to Hana, we stopped at this great lookout point overseeing the lush green Kaenae Peninsula. Very tropical, very much like Malaysia.

Kaenae Peninsula

2005-12-22T23:10:00.000-08:00

Ok, so the weather wasn't that great that day, and as you can see, the waters were a little choppy. But at least it didn't rain. As we turned into the Kaenae Peninsula, we stopped right before and after the stone bridge to take pictures of the beautiful churning waters.

At the end of the road, there is an old church built from lava rock. Built in 1860, this church is situated in an extremely idyllic location. Only a few minutes walk from the rocky coast and roiling sea, I bet this place has not changed much over the years.

Road to Hana

2005-12-22T22:44:00.000-08:00

The day before we were scheduled to fly back to San Francisco, we reserved for the Road to Hana. We stopped by the little surfer town of Paia to grab some sandwiches. With a 20 dollar deposit, they also lended us this CD that describes the various sites on the journey ahead.

After Paia, signs of civilisation started thinning rapidly, and soon we were on this winding road through the tropical rainforests. I hear there are over 600 curves and 50 bridges. We didn't keep count, but I don't doubt those numbers. Looking back at my folder of photos taken that day, I have to say that the keyword of the day was green, about a thousand shades of them.

We skipped the first waterfall on some pretty good advice, but there were plenty more to come on the trip ahead. We chose Waikamoi Ridge to be our first stop, and did a short hike that yielded great views of the bamboo groves. Did you know that bamboo is the longest grass in the world, and sugar cane is the second? Our tour guide from our Haleakala bike ride told us, ha!

Evening Feast

2005-12-02T20:34:00.000-08:00

From the get-go, we made a conscious decision to save on most of our meals, but splurge on a few select ones. If we hadn't made this decision, we would not have been spending this evening at the Feast of Lele Luau. It was a not an inexpensive event, but the four course meal was great, the never-ending pina coladas welcoming, the sunset spectacular, and the performances interesting. I have to say that we were very disappointed with the service, though. Our main server was rather cold towards us, and that totally spoiled the entire evening. Having to give a 40 dollar tip did not make things better either.

Whaler's Village

2005-11-30T23:43:00.000-08:00

Smack in the middle of the row of resorts sits Whaler's Village. This is basically an upscale mall where tourists hang out and shop. We don't really like hanging out and doing nothing when we are on vacation, and the only we shop for are snacks and shotglasses, so you'll have to excuse me for not being overly excited about this place. However, this is a charming mall in its own way. There is a skeleton of a whale at the main entrance. Now that is pretty cool - how often are you going to see a skeleton of a whale, eh? But I would say the star attraction of the mall is the museum on the top floor. It has a whole bunch of interesting exhibits on everything you ever want to know about whaling.

A Jewel of a Restaurant

2005-11-30T19:45:00.000-08:00

Some say that the Swan Court in the Hyatt is the most romantic restaurant in Maui. We took a quick stroll through the restaurant before it opened for dinner services, and found absolutely no reason to disagree. Facing gorgeous landscaped waterfalls and the setting sun, the atmosphere here is pristinely superb.

Taking it easy in Kaanapali

2005-11-29T23:18:00.000-08:00

Up till the fifth day, we have been spending all our time driving around taking in every sight the island has to offer. This was when we decided to shift gears, and do what many people do when they come to Maui - hang around the beach resorts and relax. So we drove up to Kaanapali, cause that is where all the resorts are.

We took a walk down that stretch of beach, with the hotels to one side, and the waves and golden sands to another. Unlike the rest of the island, Kaanapali definitely has a manicured feel to it. Perfectly placed palm trees surrounded swimming pools and lawn chairs sat lazily on delicate green grass. We found ourselves a hammock, and would have been content to while our afternoon away swinging with the sea breeze if it were not for the frequent passerby on the footpath next to us.

The shaka

2005-10-21T09:02:00.001-07:00

Sunset at Papawai Point

2005-10-21T09:02:00.000-07:00

Biking down Haleakala

2005-10-21T08:59:00.000-07:00

I have to admit, we were both very apprehensive at first. After all, I have never biked down a volcano before. To help put my worries to rest, I called up one of the bike tour companies and asked them how safe it was. Instead of giving me the canned reply along the lines of "you have nothing to worry about", the guy on the other end went into this five minute lecture about how this should be taken seriously. On one hand, I was happy that they took safety seriously, on the other, this showed that this wasn't something to be taken lightly either.

After watching the sunrise, we all gathered around our guide and tried out our bikes. These were specially made in New York, he said, so that they are heavier at the bottom and will allow us to glide down the mountain more easily. Getting the bike to move was easy - since we were heading downhill all the way. The tricky part was to maintain a certain minimum speed, and that meant sticking close to the person in front of you. Once you start to pull away, it becomes more and more difficult to catch up, since you won't be able to navigate the curves as optimally as the guide. One person in our group actually had a minor accident - she hit the railing on the side of the road and fell off her bike. It was an extremely sobering sight to see that happen to someone.

All in all, it was a worthwhile experience, and something that I never forget to bring up every time someone asks me what I did in Maui.

Dawn at the House of the Sun

2005-10-20T13:01:00.000-07:00

We work up at 1 in the morning. By 2am, we were waiting outside our hotel for the bike company to pick us up. A van showed up filled with tired, sleepy people just like us, eventually taking us to the rendev-vous point, where we met up with more tired, sleepy people just like us from other parts of the island. Here, we all hopped into a small bus, and headed up the volcano. It was pitch black outside still, and I really could not see anything on the trip up.

When we arrived at the top of Haleakala, I was surprised to note that it was already teeming with people. Everyone was here for the sunrise, it seems. Up here at god-knows-how-many thousand-feet, at 4 o'clock in the morning, you can imagine that it would be a little nippy. We found a cosy spot right next to the visitor center and huddled. Occassionally, we would snap a picture of the moon, or the stars.

Eventually, the sun started to rise. At first, it was a gradual lightening of the horizon. I could see the faces of the people around me now! And wow, look at the crater right in front of me! For some reason, the clouds started pouring into the crater, pretty much like the foggy-misty stuff that pours our of a witch's cauldron. As the bright gold of the morning showed itself above the sea of clouds, there were clicks of camera shutters all around, and a few cheers even.

Thus was our experience waiting for the dawn on top of Haleakala.

Sunset over the Bay

2005-10-20T12:57:00.000-07:00

As the sun began to set, the winds started to pick up speed and clouds appeared in the horizon. Afternoon showers, it seems, are not uncommon here in Maui, so we doubled back on the King's Highway and made our way back to our car. La Perouse Bay is relatively isolated here in the southwestern most part of the island, and we had the sunset all to ourselves.

La Perouse Bay

2005-10-20T12:56:00.000-07:00

Heading south of Kihei, we headed towards La Perouse Bay. They say on a lucky day, you will see dolphins swimming here. We didn't see any, but we did catch a splendid sunset. There is a hiking path that starts here, called the King's Highway. We followed it for a little while, making our way around the bay and to shores beyond. The shoreline around the bay was covered with white corals and black lava rock - a striking combination.

Going South

2005-09-17T22:30:00.000-07:00

Chang's Beach

2005-09-16T17:24:00.000-07:00

Day 3, we decided to go lie down on some secluded beach. Truly deserted beaches are rare, but they are quite a few in Maui where there are only a handful of people in sight. Taking our guide book's advice, we drove up and down and up and down South Maui looking for Chang's Beach. It was not easy to find, but when we eventually did find it, it did not disappoint. We brought along beach towels and found a nice quite spot.

Kamaole Park Beach

2005-09-15T19:28:00.000-07:00

After our drive around West Maui, we ended the day with a peaceful sunset, on one of the many beaches in Maui. Doreen loves to touch the water, and she happily took off her shoes to feel the waves and sand between her toes.

Nakalele Blowhole

2005-09-14T17:39:00.000-07:00

When we reached Nakalele Point, the northernmost part of West Maui, the sky was beginning to darken with a few storm clouds. That didn't deter us from hiking down to the Nakalele blowhole by the rocky coast. Some webpages or tour books say that this is a well-defined path, but that's only for the first half of it. Soon, we found ourselves scrambling down the rocks towards to coastline. It wasn't a particularly difficult hike, and the blowhole that greets you at the end is quite a cool sight! The waves were huge here, as they are in many parts of the island. When they hit the rocks, the water is forced upwards, and through the blowhole in a form of a geyser.
As we continued our way around Western Maui, the road started to narrow to the point where there was only room for one car. Luckily for us, there weren't many cars coming from the other direction, or from the same direction, for that matter. It was a rather tense drive, especially with the storm clouds in the distance, and the long drops to my left. The people here were friendly though - a pickup truck driver smiled toothily and waved at us as we squeezed within inches of each other. Finally, we made it to the village of KahaKuloa. The first thing we searched for was the lady in the green hut that sells banana bread, but we were like 15 minutes too late. Sigh.

Ho Wing Museum

2005-09-08T17:10:00.000-07:00

Pavement Art

2005-09-08T17:09:00.000-07:00

Lahaina Waterfront

2005-09-05T23:47:00.000-07:00

Lahaina is the old capital of Maui, a place packed with both history and tourists. Here you will hear stories of hawaiian kings and queens, western traders and seamen, whalers and immigrants. Nowadays, a lot of the waterfront is lined with tourist shops and restaurants, but we managed to find solace under the huge ( and famous ) banyan tree by the old courtyard. Banyan trees are not uncommon where I come from, but this one was uncommonly large, not to mention a symbol of the city of Lahaina itself.

The Banyan Tree at Lahaina

2005-09-02T14:16:00.000-07:00

Rainbows and whales

2005-09-02T14:15:00.000-07:00

Papawai Point

On our way to Lahaina to the north, we stopped at Papawai point. This is popular tourist stop, mainly to stare out into the ocean and scan for whales. Indeed, there was a fellow there from a local whale conservation society enthusiastically providing everyone with all the information we wanted to know about whales. He even had a little table set up with brochures and figurines.

We didn't see any whales. I mentioned this in my Oregon posts, and I'll mention it again - we never see any whales from the coast. Not here, not on the Oregon coast, not in Monterey, and not in Point Reyes. The only time I have ever seen a whale was three hours by boat from Boston harbor, but that is another story.

But we did see a rainbow though! There it was, towards the north as we turned away from the ocean.

"Quick, quick! Take a picture of it!"

And there you have it - a picture of one of the clearest rainbows I have ever seen, spanning the blue Maui sky.

Loco Moco

2005-08-30T23:16:00.000-07:00

Our first morning on Maui and we found ourselves asking the question - "Now what should we have for breakfast?"

After pulling out and pouring through our ever-handy Lonely Planet, Doreen and I decided to try out something local - a Loco Moco and some fresh local fish with eggs along with a hot cup of Kona. The Loco Moco tasted pretty good at first - it had rice, some spam, a hamburger patty, an egg on top, all drenched in some sort of ( teriyaki? ) sauce. It started getting a little heavy halfway through, though. Perhaps it's just acquired taste?

The cafe was situated right on Kihei Ave - the main road of our little seaside town. We took our time with the breakfast, and sat around afterwards sipping the coffee and watching people and traffic go by.

First Sunset, Big Beach

2005-08-30T22:47:00.000-07:00

We spent our first sunset on Big Beach, a huge stretch of sand down by the southwestern part of Maui. We bought a roasted chicken from the Food Store over at Kihei and a couple of bottles of unforgettably tasty root beer. Then we sat at the edge of the pacific and watched the sun sink into the ocean while we munched on our dinner.

Bird's Eye View of Kahului

2005-08-22T17:46:00.000-07:00

Last winter, Doreen and I decided to go to Maui. We are both fairly seasoned travellers, but this trip was special, for it was our first trip away from the Bay Area together. The flight was terrible, with almost non-stop turbulence all the way. Seeing the island of Maui finally show up through the cabin window brought a smile to my face in more ways than you can imagine.

First Glimpse of Maui

2005-08-22T07:02:00.000-07:00

Mount Shasta

2005-08-18T22:34:00.000-07:00

We spent our final day on the road driving back from Oregon. This picture of looming Mount Shasta was taken as we crossed the border back into California.

It has taken me more than a month and more than thirty posts to put the memories of this trip into words and pictures. This is the end of a chapter, but also the start of another. There are so many places to see, and so little time.

Fourth of July at Crater Lake

2005-08-18T20:21:00.000-07:00

Mazama Village - Rim Drive - Cleetwood Cove Trail

This was our final destination before the long drive back to the Bay Area, and it served well as the closing act. Our plan at Crater Lake National Park was to check out the visitor center, take the rim drive, and hike down Cleetword trail to the water's edge. It was a straightforward itinerary, but far for mundane.

From the Sinnott Memorial Viewpoint at the visitor center, we got our first full view of the lake, and boy was it spectacular. A park ranger pointed out various features along the rim - Llao Rock, The Devil's Backbone, Hillman Peak, the Phantom Ship. For lunch, we picked a quiet spot away from the tourist crowds and munched on hot dogs and a coffee.

There were so many viewpoints along the Rim Drive, each yielding a slightly different angle on the lake. We stopped at each one of them, even if it was just to snap a photo of each other. On many parts of the drive, we could still see snow on the ground, even though it was the fourth of July!

The only way down to the water's edge was to hike down Cleetwood trail. Going down was a piece of cake, even though it was starting to get pretty hot. On a normal day, we would have gone on the boat ride and continued our hike onto Wizard's Island. This was the fourth of July, however, and we couldn't get a seat on the boats. I was content to sit by the shore and look out onto the lake. It was a peaceful feeling.

Going back up the trail was quite tiring, and we were huffing and puffing by the time we got to the top. It was a really good hike though. If I live around the area, I would definitely do it quite often. But I don't think anyone lives within 30 miles of here.

Wizard's Island

2005-08-16T22:54:00.000-07:00

Crater Lake

2005-08-15T20:11:00.000-07:00

Crater Lake

For those who have been to Tahoe, Crater Lake will definitely remind you of Tahoe, only grander and bluer and deeper. Crater Lake also brings into mind another place - the enchanting island of Santorini in Greece. Both were the results of a volcanic eruption, both have the same geographical features of a caldera, and both will fill your senses wtih the most unimaginable shades of blue.

Deep Blue

2005-08-15T19:22:00.000-07:00

Where Ewoks Walked

2005-08-12T22:19:00.000-07:00

Late in the afternoon, we left Hwy 101 and headed east. Before long, we were once again on another dusty gravel road, and found ourselves in Endor. Actually, it was part of the forest where Return of the Jedi was filmed. Princess Leia was once here, and so were we.

Our last stop in the park was Stout Grove, a secluded pocket of redwood trees. There was not a single person there when we arrived, only the silent, sturdy trees and the sounds of Smith River in the background. We took a short hike to the river, and said goodbye to the silent trees as we continued on our way.

We left so many places unvisited in Redwoods, but we had to leave as we had to be in Medford by the end of the day.

Trees of Mystery

2005-08-12T21:54:00.000-07:00

Right alongside Hwy 101, at the Trees of Mystery tourist spot, there is a huge statue of Paul Bunyan and his blue ox. Thanks to a hidden microphone, Mr. Bunyan even talks to unsuspecting passerbys. Cheesy, yes, but funny in its way. I hear one can take a gondola over the trees and hike down through the trees. We stopped to take a photo of the giant statues, but didn't take the cable car for lack of time.

Driving Through a Tree

2005-08-12T11:55:00.000-07:00

Ok, so most people have heard the Tour Thru Tree, or even seen pictures of it. I thought it was really cool, even though I did hit my side mirror as I was passing through though - haha. The only thing that bugs me is that it is a privately-run "operation" and you have to pay five bucks to get to the tree!

Friends and Ferns

2005-08-10T17:06:00.000-07:00

Crescent City - Fern Canyon

We spent the night in Crescent City, a small town just north of the National Park. Checking in at the Travelodge, we found out that the owners of the establishment were Taiwanese. We struck it off immediately, and spent an hour chatting with them in the lobby. They told us how they ended up here in Crescent City, how they used to be restaurant owners in San Luis Obispo, what places to see in the National Park, what restaurants to go to, etc. The conversation continued the next morning when we checked out, and we didn't leave the hotel until noon. They offered to treat us to lunch, but we gratefully declined for the lack of time. It felt really nice, meeting people you click with on your travels.

Our friends recommended that we visit Fern Canyon. Even with their directions, we had a hard time finding the place. We followed the map closely, but the unpaved road was so unassuming that we missed it altogether the first time round. Even when we turned back to look for it, we had a hard time believing that was the correct route. Finally we bit the bullet and trekked the few miles to Fern Canyon. The road was packed gravel, and boy was I glad it wasn't my car. Haha.

Fern Canyon is out of this world. After a short hike from the parking lot, we arrived at the mouth of the canyon. The walls of the canyon were lined with lush, green ferns and other vegetation. Several of the scenes looked just like something out of Jurassic Park. The air felt moist, and definitely colder. A shallow stream flows through the canyon floor, bubbly accompanying us as we walked deeper into the canyon.

The Land Of Giants

2005-08-08T18:14:00.000-07:00

Redwoods National Park

I have to say that I am less than satisfied with the photos I took at Redwoods National Park. The lighting was poor among the tall trees, and I did not have the skills or experience to give the scenary its due credit.

California Border

2005-08-08T17:20:00.000-07:00

Last Town Before the Border

2005-08-07T23:01:00.000-07:00

Brookings

Brookings is the last town we visited before we crossed the border into California. It was rather late in the afternoon by the time we arrived, and we found ourselves stopping in front of this seemingly deserted mall by the harbor. All the shops were closed except for this one place that sells ice-cream, and ice-cream is always something that piques our curiousity. We poked our heads into the store, but the main dining room was empty. At the back of the dining room, there was a smaller room with a small window where we placed our order. There were a couple of people sitting in the smaller room watching TV. They smiled and nodded as we entered, and I suddenly got this peculiar feeling that I just stepped into someone's living room. As we waited, I also noticed several cute pictures of banana slugs on the wall ( ??!! ) Finally, we got our chocolate peanut butter ice cream. It was every bit as good as the one in Lincoln City, at half the price!

We enjoyed our ice-cream by the harbor, looking at the idle boats. This was our last stop on the Oregon Coast and we made it last.

A Town By The Sea

2005-08-07T22:15:00.000-07:00

Strangely and perhaps sadly, I do not have many pictures of Bandon-by-the-Sea. Even though we spent up to two hours here.

Bandon-by-the-Sea is this charming seaside town just south of the Coquille River lighthouse. The first thing we saw after we parked was a kite shop. Since we missed buying a kite at Lincoln City, the so-called kite capital, we decided to make up for it here. A quick peek around the store was enough to tell you that the proprietor was a serious kiter, or kites-man, or whatever the term is. We left the store with a $30 kite shaped like a surfboard, and the plan was to take it to Shoreline Park when we got back to the Bay Area. Up till today we still have not taken it to the skies yet, but it is definitely still in our short list of things to do.

After that, we sauntered over to this yummy looking cranberry candy store. Apparently, this entire geographical region is famous for its cranberry bogs and therefore produces a lot of cranberries. On a side note, the only other place where I have ever come across the word "bog" is in a Sherlock Holmes novel ( guess which one ) and Lord of the Rings. Anyways, this candy store is a candy lovers paradise. There are little bowls in front of all the products filled with samples, and getting to taste everything made the entire experience much more fun. And delicious, too.

After candy, it was time for some real food. We opted for fish 'n chips at the Bandon Fish Market, mainly because Doreen likes fish 'n chips, ( a taste she acquired from her summer in Cambridge, I think ) and because it was busier than any other restaurant in the vicinity. I have to say, the food was good, and felt kinda relaxing just sitting there in the corner, looking out at the people walking by and the never ending stream of people coming in.

The One That Got Away

2005-08-07T22:03:00.000-07:00

So many miles after we left Portland, we finally arrived at the last lighthouse on the Oregon coast - the Cape Blanco lighthouse. Unfortunately, the trail was closed for the day, and we could only drool at it from afar. Don't be fooled by the tranquil picture though, the wind at Cape Blanco was so strong that I was a little bit relieved we couldn't do the hike.

Coquille River Lighthouse

2005-08-04T21:38:00.000-07:00

For first time visitors, the first place you would think to park your car is not the best place to park your car. As you approach the Coquille River Lighthouse, you will come to a small clearing with maybe a couple of cars. The road narrows here, and there will be a "Do Not Enter" sign right in front of you. Another smaller path seemingly leads off to somewhere else to the right. Take the small path. You will find that it curves back towards the lighthouse, and brings you to a bigger parking area by the beach.

From the outside, this lighthouse is somewhat small and dimunative. It is not perched on high ground like most of its counterparts, but simply sits right by the side of the river. As you climb up the small staircase to enter the hexagonal shaped annex, you enter a visitor center / gift shop. Aside from brochures and postcards, there is a chart showing where many ships have sunk in the surrounding area, a solemn reminder of why the lighthouse is here.

Deadwood at Coquille River

2005-08-02T23:03:00.000-07:00

Umpqua Lighthouse

2005-08-02T22:38:00.000-07:00

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

First thing we did when we reached the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park was take pictures. That's the first thing we do everywhere. And of course, you get a pretty good view of the ATVs zooming around on the dunes down below.

Second thing we did was head over to the visitor center. There was a huge world map on the side wall, and we excitedly placed a pin to mark where we were from. Turned out that I was the first Malaysian visitor of the year.

Of all the lighthouses that we visited on the coast, this was the only one where we went up to check out the lens. The tour cost only 2 dollars, so we readily signed up for it. Our guide gave us many tidbits and trivia about lighthouses and lighthouse keepers. She also didn't hesitate to point out the lovely red-white lens that sets it apart from the others. We weren't around to see it light up the night, of course, but postcards at the visitor center gave us a pretty good idea.

Red Lens

2005-07-31T21:58:00.000-07:00

Great Dunes by The Sea

2005-07-31T16:26:00.000-07:00

Oregon Dunes - Reedsport

As you drive down Hwy 101 on the Oregon Coast, there will be a stretch of oh, say, 30 miles that seems a little sandier than usual. This, my friend, is the Oregon Dunes - mile upon mile of towering sand, brought down from the mountains by the Umpqua river, and blown into place by the strong year-round winds. You can't see much of the dunes from the highway, only an occasionally glimpse here and there. The real scenary comes when you turn into the backroads.

As for us, we turned towards the ocean at Reedsport. You'll know when you have entered dune territory once you see ATVs crossing the road in front of you. I wanted to try it out - ATVing across the sand - but eventually figured that it would be more fun if there were more than two of us.

Eventually, we stopped at a beach. It was sparsely populated, and I'm not even sure if it had a name. But it was a nice walk.

View of the Dunes

2005-07-27T19:18:00.000-07:00

Hiking up to Heceta Head

2005-07-27T18:19:00.000-07:00

After Newport, we continued on our drive down Hwy 101. The sun was getting lower in the sky, but there was still time for one more stop. When we pulled into the Heceta Head Lighthouse parking lot, there were only handful of cars left. The signs told us that the lighthouse was only a mile away, although we couldn't see it from the trailhead.

It was actually a pretty nice hike. Not very steep, not too far, and nice views at the end. We passed by this immaculate looking house about halfway to the lighthouse. There weren't any signs telling us what it is, but some research later revealed that it was called the Keeper's House, and served as an interpretive center and bed and breakfast.

We met a few people coming the other way on the hike, but there was no one there when we got to the top. For some reason, this lighthouse felt a little more "up close and personal" than the others. The setting sun just made the entire scene so calm and warm.

Scenes of the Coast

2005-07-27T10:29:00.000-07:00

Another Lighthouse, Another Mo's

2005-07-23T15:43:00.000-07:00

Newport

Newport reminds me of Monterey back in the Bay Area. Boats line the harbor, and the smell of salt water is ever present in the air. The main tourist attraction here is Bay Boulevard, which is lined with seafood restaurants, curio shops, cannaries, and various ocean-related businesses. There was a cat related store that Doreen really liked, but it was unfortunately closed.

We saw a couple of sea lions lying in the sun on a floating wooden platform. Probably on vacation from San Francisco, like we were.

Soon it was time for dinner. Somehow or another, we ended up in front of Mo's again. There was a long line, but we spotted Mo's Annex right across the street.

"Do you think it's the same restaurant?" asked Doreen.

"Quite possibly. Let's check it out!" I replied. We walked back and forth past the entrance a few times because from the outside, it looked more like a gift shop than a restaurant. In addition, there was this sign that said "To the restaurant" pointing directly into the kitchen. Finally, we went in. "Hi! Can I have an order of fish 'n chips to go?"

"Sorry, we don't serve fried food here. Why don't you try our main store across the street?"

"That's ok then," I said. "Could we take a look at the menu?"

On checking out the menu, we decided to grab a table instead of getting our food to go. The food was not bad, and the view of the bay was pretty good too.

Before heading across the Yaquina Bay bridge, we stopped at the Yaquina Bay lighthouse. This is not to be confused with the Yaquina Head lighthouse to the north. It is a short stumpy building, quite unlike any other lighthouse I have seen before. In fact, it look more like a residence with a oversized lantern sitting on top of it.

From the lighthouse, we had a marvelous view of the Yaquina Bay bridge. As we were snapping pictures each other, and elderly man pulled up and said "You guys need a photo together" We promptly thanked him and handed him the camera. As we pulled away to continue on our journey, he was still enjoying the lovely spectacle of the bridge basking beneath the setting sun.

A Lighthouse and a Mo's

2005-07-23T14:59:00.000-07:00

Devil's Punchbowl - Yaquina Head Lighthouse

Driving south from Cape Foulweather, we found ourselves at the Devil's Punchbowl viewpoint. The punchbowl started out as a couple of plain old sea caves on the rocky Oregon coast. Over the years, water splashed and churned away at the rocks, enlarging and eventually merginig them. When the ceiling fell in, the cave became a large circular hole in the rocks. Imagination took over, and the name Devil's Punchbowl was invented.

As we drove into the viewpoint parking lot, we spotted this unassuming little restaurant called Mo's. It was already past 3pm, and we have kept on postponing lunch till the "next stop" since ice-cream at Lincoln City. On an ordinary day, food is usually enough to get our attention. On a hungry day like this, we got downright excited.

"Look! It says world famous clam chowder!" cried Doreen, pointing at the sign on the window.

"What are we waiting for then?" I replied, jumping out of the car.

Within tem minutes, we were happily sitting in the car, safe from the blustery winds, sharing a steaming bowl of clam chowder. In my mind, it is moments like this one that string together a road trip, like pearls on a necklace.

Next stop - Yaquina Head State Park, and the first lighthouse on our itinerary.

"Hi folks! The entrance fee is $5, but I'm sorry to say that the lighthouse is closed," said a smiling park volunteer. "It closes at 4."

We looked at our watches, and rats, it was arlready 4:15. But we went in anyway. There was a nice visitor center with various exhibits. Most importantly, we still were able to walk to and around the lighthouse. This is the tallest lighthouse on the coast of Oregon, and it was built in 1872 to replace an older one that still stands in the city of Newport.

Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport

2005-07-20T13:48:00.000-07:00

A Drive Down the Coast

2005-07-18T18:39:00.000-07:00

Lincoln City - Depoe Bay - Cape Foulweather

Our itinerary for the day was to drive from Portland to Coos Bay, stopping by the various seaside towns and lighthouses on the way. It took quite a while before we got to the coast, but the drive was scenic enough - lots of trees and farms and cows.

The first town that we passed on the coast was Tillamook. What is there in Tillamook, you ask? Cheese and ice cream. I'm guessing it has a lot to do with all the farms and cows we passed by on the way here. We searched futilely its famous cheese factory, but did not find it. I'm guessing it lies north of where we turned into 101.

We did, however, stop at the next town - Lincoln City. The main attraction of Lincoln City is kites. This place holds two major kite competitions every year. We walked up and down the main street searching for kites to take home as souvenirs, but couldn't find ones that we liked. We did, however, managed to get some yummy Tillamook chocolate peanut-butter ice cream.

"Where are we going next?", I asked as we were eating our yummy Tillamook chocolate peant-butter ice cream.

"Depoe Bay!", replied Doreen happily.

"Ooo, look! It says here that it has the smallest harbor in the world! I've gotta see that!"

I cannot say whether the brochure was correct or not, but the harbor was definitely small. To get out of the harbor, the boats will have to pass underneath a stone bridge, and through a narrow passageway.

All in all, I found Depoe Bay a charming place. Highway 101 runs next to the shoreline before heading uphill into the cliffs, offering excellent views. A whale center sits at one end of the stone bridge, with quite a few exhibits and some nice spots to take pictures. And I had a blast annoying the hell out of Doreen by using the phrase "smallest harbor in the world" a few dozen times in our conversations.

One of my favorite stops was the Cape Foulweather viewpoint. It has a great view of the Devil's Punchbowl and Otter Rock off to the south, and I hear also a great place for whale watching. We didn't spot any whales, of course. We never do - not in Maui, not at Point Reyes, and not here either. They say this was where Captain James Cook first spotted the mainland of North America on the Pacific coast. Needless to say, the reason why he named it Cape Foulweather was because it was raining cats and dogs when he arrived.

The Windswept Coast

2005-07-16T07:03:00.000-07:00

Lincoln City - Depoe Bay - Newport - Bandon by the Sea

Windsurfers at Hood River

2005-07-15T22:00:00.000-07:00

The Star Attraction

2005-07-14T21:09:00.000-07:00

Multnomah Falls

The one waterfall that everyone who has been to the gorge talk about is Multnomah Falls. So, needless to say, this was the star attraction of the day.

The parking lot was packed with both cars and tourists, and there is a pretty nice gift shop / restaurant. We stopped by the visitor information for a short while to get some brochures and stamps on our National Park passports, and continued onwards to the base of the falls.

The falls is actually two tiered, with a bridge spanning across the lower half. From the viewpoint at the bottom, the first thing that strikes you is how small the bridge and people look against the entire scene. When people tell you that this is the second highest year-round waterfall in the states, you don't realize what that means until you are standing here at the base and staring up into it.

The trail to the bridge was short and easy. The trail from the bridge to the top of the upper falls was another matter. Most visitors stop at the bridge, but we decided that to go all the way to the top. The trail was steeper than we expected and we only had half a bottle of water between us, but after about half an hour of panting and huffing and puffing, we made it to the top.

I have to say that the viewpoint at the top was rather anti-climatic. You don't get a good angle of the waterfall itself, only water going off the edge. Still, I highly recommend this hike - it is a good climb hearty workout, and you do get many good views on the way up.

Waterfalls Galore

2005-07-13T23:03:00.000-07:00

Latourell Falls - Shepperds Dell - Wahkeena Falls

As the last ice age came to an end, ice dams began to melt and break, releasing unimaginable amounts of water from glacial lakes. The water roared its way towards the oceans, stripping away parts of the land itself and altering the scenary completely.

These ice age floods eventually carved out what we know today as the Columbia river gorge. Moreover,since the tributaries of the river did not have the luxury of a gazillion tons of thunderous water to help them with the erosion process, the gaps between the levels of the river and its tributaries began to widen, and waterfalls emerged as a byproduct.

All that was not what was going through my mind when I stood at the bottom of the first falls of our stop. I was thinking more along the lines of

"Whoa.. nice"

Latourell falls was a straight 200ft drop off of a rocky outcrop. Perpetual spray from the water splashing onto the rocks below ensured that we would not leave the trail in a dry shirt. Personally, I loved Latourell for its simplistic, clean beauty.

A short drive after Latourell Falls was the Shepperd's Dell Falls. It was a short hike to a little landing where you could see the falls up close.

"Oh!", said Doreen, "This one is like a staircase!"

Indeed it was. The water skipped down the rocks, finding its way through the woods and down the mountainside in small steps.

The next falls that we visited, Wahkeena, was a somewhat uphill hike from the parking lot. There were quite a few trails in the area, but given our tight schedule, we only did the one up to thus stone bridge right in front of the falls.

If you are ever fortunate enough to come here, take a moment to stand in the middle of the bridge with your eyes closed. Feel the droplets fall on your face and listen the sound of rushing water. It is an extraordinarily calming yet exhilirating experience.

Historic Columbia River Hwy

2005-07-11T18:56:00.000-07:00

Women's Forum - Crown Point

We started off bright and early. Neither Doreen or I are particularly bright and early people, but it was the first day of the trip, after all.

In our hearts, our trip started when we got off Highway 84 at Troutdale, and turned into the Historic Columbia River Highway. By many standards, Hwy 84 itself would have been considered a scenic route. It sits solidly on the bank of the Columbia river, with an occasional view of a waterfall in the distance. The route that we chose, however, was much more so. It meanders through mountains and woods, sometimes alongside rivers, and sometimes overlooking spectacular views.

After almost ten miles of lesisurely driving, we arrived at the first vista point at the Women's Forum State Park viewpoint. The morning mist still rest lazily on the river, brushing the horizon with a mystical, eerie quality.

We spend a disproportionate amount of time taking photos before heading off to our next destination - the Vista House atop Crown Point. The Vista House is a beautiful, roundish looking structure that stands on the highest point of the entire drive. This used to serve as a rest stop for weary travellers, volunteers told us. Furthermore, it was just reopened to the public a week ago after a few years of remodelling.

So here we were. Travellers too. Perhaps not weary, but content and feeling more than a little fortunate to be here at this time. Our trip has begun, and it was a happy start.

Highway 84

2005-07-11T17:48:00.000-07:00

Fourth of July Weekend in Oregon

2005-07-11T17:08:00.000-07:00

Portland - Columbia River Gorge - Oregon Coast - Redwoods - Crater Lake

We wanted a road trip. We also wanted nice scenary. We also wanted outdoorsy stuff. With only six days on our hands, what could have been better than a drive back from Portland, with stops at two National Parks along the way?